Feature Story

Not 30 minutes inside Yosemite National Park, 3 of our 6 shoes (a pair worn by one of my 10-year-old twins, and 1 on me) had slipped into the first creek we had found. The creek that the twins insisted we explore. The creek that they insisted on crossing.

Some 61/2 hours and more than 300 miles from central Orange County, we had arrived, and the natural excitement, including a crossing of Yosemite’s signature boulders swirling with cold creek water, was why we had come. These 21/2 days were to be an awakening of pure beauty for the boys – my future John Muir who has never seen a forest he doesn’t explore, and my still-developing naturalist. I served as a guide and driver. At that creek, in a spot where the water pooled up, a reddish, brackish color caught the pair’s attention. “It’s probably bear blood,” I said gravely, as Christopher and Nathan looked down. “Let’s hope for 2 things: that he’s not seriously injured, and that he’s not mad.” They looked up and scanned the nearby trees. They would see a bear soon enough.

So began our adventure, shoes drying that first night by the fire as the twins played monster games. They would soon see the 3 deer that foraged near our rented condo, and befriend the coyote that sat and watched from the forest behind our balcony.

Join the crowd
Most of the 4 million visitors to America’s most popular national park begin and end in Yosemite Valley, where Half Dome frames the breathtaking beauty; where Yosemite Falls draws thousands a day; and where selected lodging runs the gamut from the exclusive to tent living.

Then, pick your hikes; you must hike.

The strenuous 13-hour round-trip trail trek to the top of Half Dome is an experience of a lifetime, but probably only suitable for children ages 12 and up. I hope to take my teenager soon. There are, of course, many easier trails for nearly any visitor with a modicum of energy and an appreciation of the surroundings.

As National Geographic reports, the popular valley comprises only about 1% of the park, and some 800 miles of trails can be found in other parts. The Pacific Crest Trail winds its way from Canada to Mexico and meets with the John Muir Trail in Yosemite. So, expect passersby with large backpacks as you move about.

Shuttling about
There is an ease to the valley that makes it convenient for all families. Use the shuttle buses that take you in a wide circle to more than 20 stops. The easy hikes include Yosemite Falls and Happy Isles Nature Center. The latter is the trailhead for the somewhat strenuous 1.5-mile climb to Vernal Fall (expect 1 hour) and beyond, to Nevada Fall (another hour). This is the route, by the way, to Half Dome, more than 8 miles from the trailhead. From Happy Isles, you can catch a quick shuttle ride to the easily-navigated Mirror Lake, with Half Dome looming straight up from this picturesque site.

Yosemite is a destination for all nature hikers, and on our trip, we saw babies and toddlers in backpacks, and children, like mine, taking in the wonder of the sheer cliffs, the colors, the ever-present boulders, and the presence of deer, a bear and even a bobcat.

Young children like to visit nature in free-form. While they should see the must-see sights, they also should have a voice. On our last day, we headed toward the arduous Four-Mile Hike trailhead and instead came upon a forest across from El Capitan. A short hike took us to a meandering path to Bridelvail Fall. That became our day, and their memory.

As I learned with my adventurous sons, they seemed happiest not when I pointed to a trail and said, “Go,” but when they came upon something interesting to them, and just went.


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Craig Reem is the executive editor of Inland Empire Family Magazine.



IF YOU GO:
>> Yosemite Valley is a great place in which to bicycle. Bring yours or rent them.

>> Have a sturdy backpack for snacks, lunch and water. A water holder that fits around the waist is suggested. And bring plenty of water (3-4 bottles per person, more for long hikes).

>> A valuable read for Yosemite and beyond: “Guide to the National Parks of the United States,” by National Geographic ($25).

>> The National Park Service’s website is extensive and has a great link on its homepage, For Kids (nps.gov/yose). The Plan Your Visit link is an important resource.

>> AAA has maps for members’ trips, as well as its signature TripTik to get you there.

IF YOU STAY:
>> For reservations within and near Yosemite Valley, either Google “Yosemite National Park Reservations” or click on:
nationalparkreservations.com/yosemite.htm?gclid=CN7mqsyu0I8CFRsTawod7wtS9w

>> We stayed at a Studio Condo off Highway 41 about 20 minutes from Yosemite Valley. Cost for the full-kitchen, sleeps-4-accommodations was about $160 a night, with tax, including a balcony barbecue. I cooked breakfast and dinner daily, and packed lunches (bring the food from home). Reserve through Yosemite’s Four Seasons Vacation Rentals: 800.669.9300 or yosemitelodging.com

>> In Yosemite Valley, accommodations range from the exclusive historic The Ahwahnee to the pricey, but very basic, Yosemite Lodge, to Curry Village, which offers canvas tents, as well as a few hard-to-get cabins with and without private baths.

>> About 45 minutes from Yosemite Valley, though still inside the park (Highway 41), is the historic Hotel Wawona.

>> Along Highway 41 near the park entrance, which puts you more than an hour from Yosemite Valley, is the Tenaya Lodge (559.683.6555) and its less-expensive neighbor, Apple Tree Inn (559.683.5111)

SUPPLY LIST FOR FULL-KITCHEN CONDO

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